There are times when you just need that release from your routine, to clear your head, re-calibrate and feel more grounded. When that feeling comes again, I know the West Highland Peninsulas will be waiting - Kay, the Chaotic Scot shares her wonderful experience of Autumn in the West Highland Peninsulas.
Life is never a linear journey, but living through a pandemic has been like a white-knuckle rollercoaster ride on repeat. First came the initial plunge into home confinement and social detachment, then just when we got used to the slower pace and simple things, we were thrust back out into a world which still isn’t quite the same as what we left it.
During lockdown, Edinburgh’s bustling city centre streets fell into a post-apocalyptic state of desertion. It was a truly bizarre sight, particularly the iconic Old Town, but I soon became accustomed to the absence of people and queues of traffic. This has since sparked a sensitivity to crowds and noise that I didn’t have before. Now, I frequently feel overwhelmed and overstimulated, constantly craving quiet, calm and wide open spaces. My autumn adventure to the West Highland Peninsulas came at exactly the right time.
The weather was wet and wild on the drive north, and I burst into a flood of tears, not dissimilar to the drama of the deluge outside. I was burnt-out from over-working and struggling to keep up with the return of life’s fast pace, constant demands and non-stop social media notifications.
Entering the realms of the West Highland Peninsulas, my mood was set to change. Warm shades of the new season were radiant on the wild landscapes, and pockets of mist lingered around tree tops, for extra atmospheric effect. Loch Sunart was so flawlessly still, the reflection provided a double dose of the surrounding scenery.
These peninsulas are never teeming with tourists, even in the height of summer, but even less so at this time of year: it’s like having a whole corner of the West Coast to yourself. Phone signal is a mythical force around these parts, which allowed me to disengage and immerse myself in the outdoors without distraction.
Soon, the ball of stress in the pit of my stomach became less heavy and prickly, until I could hardly notice it at all. The natural environment alone was enough to nurse my mind and soul, and that was before I really delved into the wellness experiences on offer. These are my highlights from the trip.
Cold water therapy with Swim Highlands
It was so still and quiet, it was if someone had hit the ‘pause’ button on Loch Sunart. The silence was soon be interrupted when I met Laura from Swim Highlands and we burst into excitable chatter as we slowly waded into the water. Laura is a certified outdoor swimming guide with infectious energy, and a trailer full of everything you need for a safe and enjoyable swim: wet suit, cap, socks, gloves, and goggles.
Cold water exposure is always a bit of a shock at first (even in a wetsuit) but the benefits by far outweigh the initial discomfort: it is calming and exhilarating all at once and a lot of fun! Laura and I took a leisurely swim from Strontian, and to finish off we did a couple synchronised leaps into the water from the jetty. Afterwards, it was all Dry Robes, hot drinks and chocolates. Wonderful!
One night in Leacraithnaich Bothy
If you want to escape the modern world entirely, go right back to basics and stay in a bothy. Leacraithnaich Bothy is hidden away on the Ardtornish Estate in Morvern, in a truly idyllic location overlooking Loch Tearnait. The one hour walk to the bothy is a journey even further from the beaten track, and it gave me time to mentally declutter and prepare for a night in such an isolated abode.
Stepping inside the bothy, I was surprised; it wasn’t as basic as I was expecting. In 2019, volunteers from Mountain Bothies Association, who work hard to maintain Scotland’s bothies, carried out an extensive renovation on the bothy which included a new roof and internal walls.
We settled in quickly, lighting the fire, collecting water to boil, and unrolling our sleeping bags and mats onto the wooden sleeping platform. We ate venison stew in front of the fire – which the estate had kindly provided - read books and stepped outside after dark to marvel at the vast desert of stars covering every inch of the great black void over our heads.
I slept soundly that night. It’s not that I forgot there was life beyond the bothy, I just hadn't even thought about it.
Forest bathing with Darach Croft
Forest bathing is an ancient Japanese practise of relaxation and mindfulness, where you immerse yourself and all of your senses in the forest environment. Hugh from Darach Croft guided us into Ariundle Woods and invited us to slow down, look, listen, touch and just… stop. These ancient oak woods are an enchanting place to lose yourself for a short while and tuning in to it all really heightened my senses and encouraged me to connect with my surroundings. We finished with some of Hugh’s homemade mint and nettle tea, seated by a babbling stream, enjoying only the sounds from nature.
Learning about herbal medicine
Clare Holohan is fully qualified medical herbalist and massage therapist, who formerly trained as a chef! I arrived at her wee studio in Morvern to learn all about the clinics she holds on-site and online, as well as her workshops and wellbeing retreats. Clare has an impressive herb garden and is a keen forager, harnessing what nature provides to benefit health and wellbeing.
Spending time with Clare got me thinking about what I consume and the ways in which I could incorporate more fresh herbs and natural ingredients into my diet (more fruit and veg would be an excellent start!). During lockdown, Clare published her own book, Scotland’s Wild Medicine through a successful Kickstarter campaign, packed with plants and herbs growing in Scotland, their benefits and what to do with them. The perfect book to enjoy by the fire.
Relaxing Walks on the West Highland Peninsulas
For more inspiration on places to immerse yourself in nature, check out these special locations around the peninsulas, from lush woodland to breathtaking beaches.
- Aoineadh Mor abandoned village, Morvern
- Garbh Eilean Wildlife Hide
- Castle Tioram, Moidart
- Singing Sands, Ardnamurchan
- Ardtoe, Ardnamurchan
- Sanna Bay Ardnamurchan
Many thanks to Kay for sharing her trip with us, a good reminder to slow down, spend some time outdoors, and find your way back to the simpler things. You can follow Kay on her amazing travels at The Chaotic Scot.